As I ate my way through Vilnius, I couldn’t help but grow nostalgic of Budapest in the 2010s. When the city remained wildly affordable to consume some of the country’s best dishes and produce. There was a time when Hungary’s capital was yet to be congested by tourists, when a plate of goulash was less than 3 euros accompanied by an even cheaper pint of beer. That’s Vilnius today, well, maybe not quite as economical as a throwback Budapest.

To eat and drink throughout Old Town Vilnius, however, embodies a sense of living on the cusp. The city is right on the edge of mass tourism, right at the tip of losing its status as a hidden gem. There’s something wistful about this state of growth, it’ll change the landscape of restaurant menus. In a few years, there’ll be neoclassical dishes or more aptly put: modern gastronomical takes on traditional ingredients. The city will soon be flooded with speakeasies, look out for doors hidden as bookshelves or laundromats.

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Arguably the best restaurant in Vilnius, Ertlio Namas celebrates historic cuisine that dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries. In those eras, dukes and duchesses believed “you are what you eat,” hence diners will find neither pork nor chicken on the menu since they were considered weak animals, particularly chickens were consumed solely by farmers during this time.

Upon arrival of each plate, a waiter explains the history and story behind every exquisite dish. With either 4 or 6-course set menu available, it’s clear that Ertlio Namas is meticulously intentional by integrating the past and present in an upscale setting while remaining true to Lithuanian heritage.

Named by St. Michael the Archangel, or patron of the people, as well as the alley which the restaurant is located; Mykolo 4 is a family-run institution featuring 19th century bourgeoisie cuisine in Vilnius. The interior space is classically elegant which pairs beautifully with a drink menu full of exclusive wines (like the traditional white fruit berry wine) and a house special: natural mead – honey fermented alcohol from ancient times. Don’t forget to try fried pig ears, dumplings, and beet ice cream.

A famous stop for traditional Lithuanian cuisine is Senoji trobelė where you’ll want to load up on potato pancakes, cepelinai (potato dumplings,) and cold borscht (beet root soup.) The cottage-like restaurant welcomes patrons with an airy outdoor patio, wander inside and you’ll camp at one of many wooden tables and chairs that transport an authentic dining experience to a snowy winter night by the fireplace, sipping on local beers and pungent brandy.

Situated in the heart of Old Town, Etno Dvaras is a favorite among tourists but it’s also simply a cozy spot not only with easy access to most landmarks, but its menu also showcases Lithuanian classics: herring, fried breadsticks with cheese dip, beet root soup, wild mushroom soup in a bread bowl, blood pudding…and much more. Just the potato dumplings alone, there are 14 options available to choose from: fried, with meat, meat-stuffed…just to name a few.

This is now a vital stop for travelers. Known as a pub serving real beer, Šnekutis’ kitchen also serves up delicious Lithuanian dishes: potato dumplings, fried cod, pig ears and feet. At night, the bar/restaurant turns into a buzzy spot, especially for foreigners eager to taste a wide variety of craft beers. From a cold IPA to a darker stout, Šnekutis is where you can take endless cherry shots with friendly bartenders.

Despite that The pub Leičiai, or Alina Leičiai, also serves delicious Lithuanian cuisine (try the savory cepelinai;) you want to come here for a plethora of Lithuanian beers. Can’t make a decision? Order the tasting sample which comes with: cannabis beer, pale ale and IPA. Lithuanian beer culture mirrors the country’s brewing practices that traces back to the medieval era, particularly in the monasteries. To learn more about this nation’s high-quality brews with its locally-sourced ingredients, you can opt for a brewery tour at pub Leičiai.

Right across the street from The pub Leičiai, you’ll hear busy chatters from Dream Bar by Stikliai. Vastly different from the brewery, this hotel lounge is a cozy spot for tasty cocktails. The Relais & Chateaux Stikliai Hotel has designed a stylish bar in the middle of Old Town, adorned by red velvet couches and delicious drinks. The hotel terrace is also connected to the restaurant, Winter Garden, and an inner courtyard. Want to hang out with a cosmopolitan crowd? Sip on a martini at Dream Bar.

Ponulis Nulis is a quaint stop off of the main street in Uzupio Freetown. In addition to its antique mocktail bar, this is also a bookstore, a café and a must-stop for art lovers. It’s colorful menu is full of classics and favorites at a typical bar, the catch is that none of them contain alcohol. Instead of a buzz, you’ll find its margarita or Bloody Mary incredibly refreshing. Perfect for a lazy afternoon strolling through this independent freetown.