Often eclipsed by Samarkand and Bukhara, Khiva has transformed itself from the slave trade of Central Asia to the Pearl of Uzbekistan. It is, undeniably, worth the adventurous voyage.

Welcome to three kilometers of mystery and grandiosity of Khiva – a 1,500-year-old open air museum boasting more than 60 extravagant mosques, mausoleums, madrasas, palaces and museums. As an imperative stop on the Silk Road, Khiva lugs the ghastly weight of a slave trade from the 17th to 19th centuries, especially notorious for captured Persian and Russian slaves that were sold like livestocks. Today’s Khiva is a continuous exhibition of stunning architecture, and it all begins from a stalwart fortress: Itchan Kala.

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Kalta Minor Minaret

Welcoming travelers into Itchan Kala, or inner city, is the magnificent Kalta Minor Minaret. At 70 meters tall, the minaret leads to the entrance of Muhammad Amin Khan madrasa, created by the khan who wanted to build the largest and the tallest minaret in the Muslim world.

As a dedication to Muhammad Riza Ogahi – the Khiva poet and statesman – the minaret features verses of his poetry. Ogahi himself also marked several writings on the tiles that were destructed during the Soviet era. Once Uzbekistan became independent, the writings were restored from Ogahi’s manuscripts.

Kalta Minor Minaret things to do in Khiva — Kalta Minor Minaret. PHOTO WENDY HUNG

Covered in geometric glazed tiles, the minaret displays a popular design patter of the time. Travelers can climb up to the second floor of the monument, and admire the iconic structure from a different perspective.

Shopping in Khiva — Main entrance. PHOTO WENDY HUNG

Kuhna Ark

Built during the 12th century, Kuhna Ark is Itchan Kala’s fortified citadel meant to be a city within a city for the exclusive use of the khan and his encourage, including: harem (wives, concubines, female servants,) extended families, advisors, staff and servants.

Several khans have utilized 1.2 hectares of Kuhna Ark throughout the centuries, including: Arang Khan (1688-1694,) Inaq Iltuzer (1804-1806,) Muhamamad Rahim Khan I (1806-1825,) then Allah Quli Khan (1825-1842.) Inside Kuhna Ark, there’s a summer mosque, a reception courtyard, a Ak Sheikh Bobo bastion, a harem, and a south courtyard.

Pahlavan Mahmud Mausoleum

Arguably the most breathtaking complex in all of Khiva is arguably the Pahlavon Mahmud (1247-1326) Mausoleum; dedicated to the local wrestler, poet, craftsman, healer and philanthropist. Now often revered as a site of pilgrimage, the mausoleum depicts Persian design style with a comprehensive use of turquoise mosaics. His compassion and generosity are not only remembered as preserved stories that have been passed down through generations, they also merit the honor of Khiva’s largest dome.

Juma Mosque

Another spectacular site is Juma Mosque where 212 wooden columns lined in 17 rows, under an ancient roof. Located in the heart of Itchan Kala, Juma Mosque came to life during the 10th century, with each pillar depicting a Kufi inscription which were the earliest Islamic handwritten alphabet used to record the Quran. The texts on the pillars nudges worshippers that: this possession belongs to Allah. Some pillars were erected during the 18th century, as can be seen with various dates marked on each pillar.

Islam Khodja Minaret / Madrasa

Towering over Itchan Kala is Islam Khodja Minaret, commissioned by the prime minister that it was named after. At 56.6 meters in height, the minaret is highlighted by artistically glazed ceramics that swirl around in white and blue. It’s also part of the madrasa built in 1910, offering 42 rooms for 50 students to study at the Institute of Science. Khodja greatly contributed to the development of Khiva by establishing: hospital, telegraph, post office, iron bridges…and more.

Islam Khodja Minaret things to do in Khiva — Islam Khodja Minaret. PHOTO WENDY HUNG

Toshhovli Palace

Completed in 1841 by 1,000 slave laborers, Toshhovli Palace was used as a residence by the ruler of Khiva: Allah Kuli Bahadur Khan (1825–1842.) The lavishly enormous area encompasses 260 rooms, three courtyards, an Audience Hall and court of justice. The harem was completed the earliest, compared to the rest of the complex. It housed the khan and his five wives. Allah Kuli Bahadur Khan was most notable for restoring Khiva’s central power as well as fostering commercial and trade relationships with the Russian Empire.

Shop at various stalls.

Throughout Khiva, there are numerous stalls and vendors, selling Uzbek souvenirs. Silk rugs, intricate textiles, colorful garments, hand-painted illustrations can be seen through ancient alleys. Keep your eye out for wool hats that are emblematic of the Soviet era, they may become useful during winter months.

Cafe Zarafshon

Cafe Zarafshon is a charming restaurant, serving traditional Uzbek dishes in a throwback setting. Vibrant curtains, colorful textiles are hung on the walls, as the meals start with typical Uzbek bread baked in a tandir oven. Don’t miss the aubergine salad, it’s a refreshing accompaniment to any tasty meat dish on the menu.

Ayvon

For a luxurious dining experience, head over to Ayvon where a multi-floor building has been converted into a sophisticated restaurant with a modern rooftop terrace, overlooking the entire skyline of Khiva. The menu showcases the fusion of European and Asian flavors, offering a wide range of dishes from Uzbek meatball soups to a cheesy large pizza.