Inside Siena’s Most Historic Restaurant: Osteria Le Logge

The most legendary restaurant in Siena is also a treasure trove of stories, art, and philosophies.

There we were, admiring a flawlessly carefree sketch by David Hockney. Mirco Vigni smiled so wide, as he flipped through colorful pages of a dated notebook. He paused at a gangly line stretching flatly across several ivory sheets, “This is from another artist, that is from Milan to Logge.” His finger trailed the line then he laughed some more. The aroma of nostalgia marinated deeply along pickled vegetables ready to be served.

Walking through the doors of Osteria Le Logge was akin to a museum of galleries. Mirco shared many of those stories with us, as he pointed in the notebook that clearly conjured immense pride. There was another drawing blending constructivism, cubism and surrealism, “This one was made for the Queen of Norway, an artist that finished it twice.” Before arriving at the page of Hockney’s sketch of a hand next to a fork, we stopped for a few seconds at a black-and-white image honoring one of the most influential Italian poets: Alda Merini. Just one of numerous greats that have graced their presence here. Now and forever, living in Siena’s food and art culture.

How did the restaurant start?

MV: Osteria Le Logge was founded in 1977, by Gianni and Laura Brunelli. Gianni was from Montalcino like me, he came to Siena to work in the industry. With Laura and their mother, they decided to start an osteria. They found this beautiful spot, but didn’t have money at the time to take the entire space, so they left it but took it back in 1984. This was originally a grocery shop. An organic one that was probably too early for its time, so it failed. When Gianni took the shop back, his family transformed it into an osteria.

In the beginning, they served simple dishes, true to authentic Tuscan flavors at the time.

Who used to come to the restaurant and dine?

MV: In the beginning, the restaurant started near the university, especially popular among artists. You’d see the most intellectual parts of Italy coming to this area of Tuscany. Eating at our family table, discussing, eating and drinking. Many political decisions were made in this place. Even fights between opposing political parties, between the right and the left. So the osteria soon became the place to be, and the place to go.

At that time, the kitchen was very simple, made by Gianni’s mother. Every dish was authentic, it was a simpler time. Over the year, the osteria became better and nicer. It moved according to the times.

Did slow food start right here?

MV: It was here at Osteria Le Logge when the term, “slow food,” was used for the first time in history. It was 1979, by an extremely important intellectual in Italy. During the 1970s, fast food was entering Italy. It might’ve already been in the States, but the concept was quite new in our country. So the term “slow food” was used to protect our kitchen, to say “stop!” And to say that: our way of eating is different.

When did you join Osteria Le Logge?

MV: I arrived in 1988, since I knew Gianni from before, we became partners after seven months. At that time, we decided to complete a new kitchen, including setting up a wine bar in the square. Since then, I’ve been the engine of this restaurant. Unfortunately, Gianni passed away in 2008. That was when Laura took over the winery – since they have a winery in Montalcino as well, called: Gianni Brunelli.

This is Osteria Le Logge. It’s a place where we like to be beautiful for our customers. Nice, polite, and always with great food.

How has the menu changed over the years?

MV: Back in 1999-2000, Osteria Le Logge was quite classic, the plates were of older styles. We realized that the world was changing so we needed a new kitchen, a younger chef. We needed a new method of cooking.

So we decided to focus on taking the ingredients, while making them in the best way, in the contemporary time. And look at the best ways that science can give us the power to do. By using different materials, like cold and warm temperatures to stop certain processes of materials. We source those ingredients and produce from the best organic gardens and Tuscan producers, although we have two gardens on our own. Today, our cuisine can be considered as contemporary Tuscan cuisine, using the best local ingredients.

How do you maintain the passion of running a restaurant?

MV: Of course, it comes from inside. But the biggest passion is clients and friends. They’re like battery rechargers, Even if critics have something to say, when it’s delivered constructively, that keeps me alive everyday and gives me the power to come every morning and discuss with the chefs in a nice way. And try to arrive at the best point that you can.

How does Osteria Le Logge sustain its authenticity?

MV: The only answer I have is to be what we are. So is your heart, your knowledge, your hands, and your vulnerability of being authentic without lying to the customers. You know, this is my house. So I welcome you to my house, and I wish for you the same I wish for myself. So I will try to give you my best, in ways of politeness, taste, and ambiance. I wish that when you get up, I see you with a smile and that you can remember this place forever in your life.