A new stamp in my passport invigorated a divine start at Trinity Lavra.
PHOTO WENDY HUNGAfter traveling for twenty-six years, at some point, I stopped counting how many countries I’ve been to. Traveling is no longer about reaching a certain number, but rather, a combination of connecting with the foreign and sensing comfortability in familiar and unfamiliar lands. Flipping through my passport, it’s clear I consider many places home. Stamps from Taiwan and France conquer several pages, one imprint stacking on top of another that barely made it onto the page. But certain visas remain to captivate my mind, transporting reminiscence of witnessing extreme poverty during my first hour in India, standing merely few feet away from wildebeests in Kenya’s Maasai Mara, or being curiously held at Palestinian customs simply because my Cartier Love lock bracelet wouldn’t come off. These are all stories my passport oozes, I hate it when it expires.
The sight of my Russian visa will forever symbolize a certain shock value. Just as my recollections in India, Kenya, Palestine and in many countries, memories are fiercely prompted beyond others due to lack of expectations. Similar to most things in life, surprises (especially good ones,) appear when situations are encountered without prior judgements. Besides being a literary fan of Tolstoy and Dostoevsky, and growing up attempting to master Tchaikovsky’s overtures; I honestly didn’t know what to expect in Russia. I knew it would be extremely cold, it would be a culture wildly different from all that I knew. But this was all inquisitively exciting.
PHOTO WENDY HUNGMy family and I flew from Taipei, with a layover in Hong Kong, then arrived in Moscow. Fifteen-plus hours later we had one landmark on the agenda: Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius – one of the most significant Russian monastery of the Russian Orthodox Church. Early in the morning, Moscow lingered in pitch darkness. Light snow glistened our coats and luggages, murmuring along a bearably cold but gentle weather. Trinity Lavra is located in Sergiyev Posad – seventy kilometers north of Domodedovo International Airport (DME,) the most easily accessible airport out of three in Moscow. Two hours in the car, we saw Russia’s morning light break through icy clouds, we departed the bustling capital through forests blanketed with romantic snow. At last, we arrived at gasps of colors popping amid white solemn. “Onion tops,” I kept calling out in Mandarin, referring to embellished rooftops or domes in blue and gold that eagerly waved for our attention.
PHOTO WENDY HUNGTrinity Lavra is a vast spiritual ground founded in the 14th century by Russian saint, Sergius of Radonezh. Over the centuries, it expanded with: stone cathedrals built by Serbian monks, the rise of Church of the Holy Spirit with a traditional belltower commanded by Ivan the Great, Assumption Cathedral by Ivan the Terrible that took twenty-six years to build. The town, Sergiyev Posad, formed due to increased popularity and enormity of the monastery in 16th century. By the time Empress Elizabeth was at helm in 1700s, one of the most beautiful belltowers in blue and white was constructed and the monastery became one of the most financially charged spiritual grounds in Russia. It encompassed a wide variety of original manuscripts, books and art pieces. In recent times, parts of the monastery were destroyed during the Russian Revolution. Today, however, the estate is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting millions of visitors throughout the year.
PHOTO WENDY HUNGIn midst of frigid winter, the monastery was filled and busy. Locals came to pray, with families and children lugging sleighs. Groups of military men sank into sweet hymns sung by women with heads wrapped in demure scarfs. Others stood in quiet lines, for a chance to prey and kiss glass caskets of saints who have passed away. It was poignant, intensely spiritual even for a Buddhist like me.
This was how our trip kicked off, sunken in the amazement of sordid history. Complex yet richly powerful. Our minds were left with hearts of dedicated believers, language might have restricted verbal exchanges but soldiers smiled at me, as I stared at children bundled in layers, unaware of holy sprits such grounds sacredly muttered in ashy snow. Mighty, sovereign in Russia. The new stamp in my passport invigorated a divine start to a foreign yet heartwarming journey. Day one.
PHOTO WENDY HUNGTips:
- Camera ticket – A separate ticket needs to be purchased for taking photos, either with cameras or mobile phones.
- Photo restrictions – Some cathedrals do not allow photo-taking inside.
- Language barrier – Everything is written in Russian, do not expect to visit this part of Russia and fully use English everywhere. If you don’t speak Russian, hand gestures may be more helpful.
- Hats off – Men are requested to take off their hats inside cathedrals.
