It’s one thing to stroll through one of Paris’ many cathedrals, neck craned to see jewel-colored light streaming in, feet shuffling quietly with the crowd in and out of the niches and alcoves.
It’s another experience altogether to sing under those same stained-glass windows, or hear the voices of a choir 80 voices strong resound off columns erected over four hundred years ago. I had the chance to perform with my school’s glee club in these churches, and I highly recommend visiting cathedrals if you can, especially when there is a concert!
Even if you don’t speak French, you’re not familiar with the traditions of Roman Catholic or Episcopalian churches, or you’re not well versed in Medieval architecture, you can tour cathedrals like the iconic Notre Dame by day as a silent tourist- or you could experience the auditory landscape that a musical performance can provide. Music is perhaps the best way to experience a space made sacred by time and religious import.
1. L’Eglise de la Madeleine
Located in the heart of the 8th arrondissement, this column-ringed temple originally designed to honor Napoleon’s army stands out in a busy intersection. Visitors stream into the parish for daily services, in the same place where Chopin’s funeral was held. The cavernous and ornate nave is also the venue for frequent concerts, with several held every week. I keep a vivid memory of the opening chord of the American spiritual, “My Soul’s Been Anchored in the Lord,” which ripped through our choir and resounded off the rounded domes in the ceiling for a good 5 seconds. A slightly unconventional song choice for a performance in an 18th century Roman Catholic church, it surprised the choir, the random collection of listeners stopping in, and the statues on the dais.
2. American Cathedral
A hop, skip, and twenty-minute walk down the Champs Elysees from L’Arc Du Triomphe, the tallest spire in Paris rises above high-end shopping. Inside, bulbs pulsate and glow like real flames. This relatively young cathedral sports the French, American, and all 50 state flags hanging in the nave. Although the piano that Cole Porter once played is out of commission and stays hidden beneath a white sheet, the Cathedral’s Grand Organ still attracts crowds of visitors and loyal admirers for monthly performances. The American Cathedral regularly hosts concerts by visiting ensembles as well as their own adult and youth choirs, so you’ll often find an audience perched close to the front steps with open ears.
3. Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres
Tucked away in the hills of Chartres sits this 12th century monolith, the epitome of high Gothic style architecture, complete with underground crypt and an ancient labyrinth traced on the floor. Specialty food shops and charming restaurants scatter the quaint cobblestone streets that sweep around two mismatched spires and the grounds of Chartres cathedral. Behind the impressive buttresses you’ll find one of the largest and most impressive collections of Medieval stained glass. High above, over 170 breath-taking rose and lancet windows transport you through history. As a sign reads, “Light is here metamorphosed.” So too is the sound of human voices. When night falls in mid-winter, the temperature drops between the mile-high columns and frosty exhalations of song warm the space from the inside out.
Article written by Marina Kaneko.
