It was one of those summer family trips, my mother reserved a bungalow hotel that no longer exists today. The staff brought sumptuous breakfast to our bungalows every morning by gently rowing boats over tranquil waters at dawn. I spent most of the afternoons lazily reading under luscious banana trees, Like Water For Chocolate was my adolescent obsession at the time. Chiang Mai was yet to be discovered by the mass, just as I was yet to be acquainted with the verity of adulthood.

More than two decades later, I returned to Chiang Mai and boy, had the city transformed into a full-fledged popular destination. Its rural streets were packed with digital nomads, English widely and unabashedly spoken. Market signs now inked with Chinese characters while coffee shops brimmed with open laptops. Thankfully, the city’s palpable charm remains. The heart of Chiang Mai is still delineated by its sweet locals: wide smiles, sincere friendliness. Gentle innocence evaporates from their genuine pores.

We begin our Chiang Mai journey at Wat Phra Singh, which is also known as “The Monastery of the Lion Buddha.” In Thailand, wat means “temple.” Clearly indicated by symbolic singh, or lions, bravely guarding the temple’s entrance. It currently houses hundreds of monks and novices, along with ancient and prized images of Buddha.

In 1345, King Phayu, who was the fifth king of the Mangrai dynasty constructed Wat Phra Singh to house his father’s ashes. Later, during the temple’s restoration in 1925, three urns were found inside that were assumed to be royal ashes. Since then, the urns have yet to be rediscovered.

Wat Chedi Luang, or Temple of the Royal Stupa, is the combination of three temples that were constructed during the 14th century by King Saen Muang Ma also as a place to bury his father’s ashes. The king passed away ten years after but the temple remained incomplete, it was his widow who finished the construction of the temple. At the time, it was the largest chedi, or pagoda, in Lanna Kingdom. In 1545, however, a massive earthquake destroyed 60 meters of the chedi, which was partially restored in 1990s. What made Wat Chedi Luang incredibly significant is also the Emerald Buddha, which was placed here then later moved to present-day Laos, then to Bangkok’s Wat Phra Kaew. 

A much smaller wat in the middle of the city is the beautiful Wat Pha Khao, or “Temple of White Clothes,” which is a personal favorite due to vibrant and colorful umbrellas displayed throughout the temple originally built by King Thaomekuthi Suthiwong of the Mangrai Dynasty that oversaw the Lanna Kingdom from 1292 to 1558. The name of the temple refers to the king who changed into white clothing before attending any ceremony at this particular wat. 

15 kilometers outside of the city is the extraordinary Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, named after the mountain of its graceful location. The first stupa of the temple was built in 1383, since then, numerous holy shrines have expanded the temple grounds into the prosperity that it is today.

Its White Elephant legend undoubtedly makes Doi Suthep utterly mythical, which depicts Monk Sumanathera’s dream of a quest to look for a relic. When the monk discovered a bone, many believed it was Gautama Buddha’s shoulder bone, and that it emanated magical powers of glowing, disappearing, moving and replicating itself. But when the King saw it, the relic displayed abnormality so the relic was returned back to the hands of the monk. When King Nu Naone of the Lanna Kingdom heard about the relic and wanted to see it, it mystically broke into two pieces. The king placed one of the pieces on the back of a white elephant which climbed up Doi Suthep and trumpeted three times before dying. Since this was considered ominous, the king ordered for the temple to be built.

Situated inside Si Lanna National Park, Bua Tong Sticky Waterfalls is a must-do that’ll require a driver / bus / Grab app. The spring’s richness in calcium flows down over boulders of the waterfall, which in turn creates a sticky sensation so that visitors can grip on with bare hands and feet without slipping. There are three levels of waterfalls, and various climbing trails to offer gorgeous views of the natural landscape.

Sometimes, cliché is okay! Dinner at Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center is a true feast since it’s the first Khantoke dinner (a pedestal tray used as a small dining table by the Lanna people) and Lanna cultural show in the city. The Cultural Center also offers other shows, including: Muay Thai Boxing and Hill Tribes, but the dinner dance show is truly spectacular with delicious foods while sitting on the floor and admiring folk dances on the stage. Expect traditional dishes like Burmese pork curry, green chilli paste, minced pork in tomato-chilli paste, crispy fried pork skin, fresh vegetables, stir-fried mixed vegetables, sweet crispy noodles, fried pumpkin, fried chicken…and much more.

The Service 1921 Restaurant is housed inside the former British Consulate now transformed into the Antanara Hotel, which is always a good idea for a fancy meal in a refined and romantic setting. Come here if you’re nostalgic for a juicy steak and fragrant ravioli paired with delicious cocktails. It’s a fancy spot to be but full of history. In addition to the food, the interior décor still rings true to its past stemmed from an eccentric British intelligence concept with dark woods and hidden doors that lead to grandiose dining rooms.

For something a bit more casual and vegan, don’t miss Free Bird Cafe. This “café with a cause” offers a fantastic array of organic options, from food, smoothies, juices, coffees, and desserts. You’ll see many travelers eating here, but we love it because the café supports Thai Freedom House, which gives back to a community language and arts program for refugees. If you didn’t know, there’s quite a huge population of Burmese refugees in Chiang Mai. Founder of Thai Freedom House, Lisa Nesser is originally from Saint Louis, MO. She created the foundation to provide “a healthy, fulfilling daily meal, a safe house where students and their family members could gather and use as a community space, they could share their challenges and receive the much desired education that they sought.”

Reform Kafé’s vibe is chill, relaxing and zen as frogs on the terrace seem to sing louder than clinks between plates and utensils. It’s also the hotel restaurant to Green Tiger guesthouse, so expect an expat crowd. Its vegan menu features refreshing smoothies, paired with Thai and European dishes.

There might be several indoor malls in Chiang Mai, but the Warorot Market is a dream for artisanal, handicraft, and local goods. So much so that even renowned French chef of The Oxygen Dining Room, Alexandre Demard told me, “that’s where I buy and experiment with local produce.” Open daily from 4 a.m. to 6 p.m., the Warorot Market is a quick 2-minute walk from the famous Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, where you can taste a plethora of Thai street foods.