Spend a day entranced by the allure of Bohemian spirit in Skadarlija. Its magic is imprinted by nomadic gypsies, as well as celebrated actors, writers and poets from the past.

A trip to Belgrade wouldn’t be complete without indulging in a traditional Serbian restaurant or devouring a shot of fruity rakija on the iconic Bohemian Skadarlija Street. During the 1830s, gypsies settled in this area since a major part of it was considerably abandoned by the government. In 1854, city operators decided to construct brick buildings that instantly attracted local artisans and caterers to set up shop.

After 1901, Skadarlija shifted to an epicenter of artistic movement in Serbia. Renowned writers, actors, poets and directors moved into inns on the iconic street. Ever since, the vintage neighborhood has often been referred to as “The Montmartre of Belgrade.” Some famous restaurants have preserved the previous shops’ names at the same location as a way to carry on the buildings’ storied artisanal past, including: Tri Šešira (Three Hats,) Dva Jelena (Two Deers,) Zlatni Bokal (Golden Chalice,) and Ima Dana (There Will Be Days.)

After Kalemegdan Park, Skadarlija is Begrade’s  second most-visited tourist attraction. This list is a helpful guide to spend an enchanting day in a car-free zone that, rather, boasts ancient cobblestones and narrow alleys.

The colorful terrace at Caffe Hand Made is enough of a vivacious seduction. The caffee is an adorable place for an afternoon latte, then alters to a casual bar in the evening. The interior is equally prismatic, golden and cobalt velvet couches behind plush curtains.

If you’re curious about hookah or shisha, the place to go on this street of free spirit would be Kandahar Skadarlija. The small, cozy spot also serves Serbian-Turkish coffee while amusing tea lovers with a vast array of Turkish tea types. Kandahar Skadarlija is also a fun meet up point before clubbing in the city.

* Note to non-smokers: During wintertime, cigarette smokers are allowed to indoor smoke.

For THE restaurant to indulge in traditional Serbian cuisine in Belgrade, head over to Dva Jelena. The historical institution first opened its doors in 1977 by Blagota and Jelica Pesic as a renowned restaurant welcoming former Yugoslavia celebrities. As one of the oldest taverns in Belgrade now, Dva Jelena comprises the largest à la carte menu in the city, full of hearty goodness and traditional Serbian recipes. A personal favorite is ox cheeks perfectly braised, tender and flavorful on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes. The gorgeous indoor space is embellished by lovely wall paintings and can accommodate up to 450 guests, the exterior patio can host up to 350 people, facing the Bohemian quarter’s vitality. The best part about Dva Jelena is the live music which accompanies a delightful meal, during both lunch and dinner.

If you’re with a large party at Velika Skadarlija, try the “Saber of the Hero for Four People” which is essentially a massive platter of gourmet kebab, smoked pork fillet, smoked pork ham, sausage, turkey baked potato with cream cheese and grilled vegetables. In reality, it satiates far more than four people. Under the guidance of chef Saša Matić who is from the TV show “Kitchen from Hell,” the menu is sumptuous with a fusion of Serbian and Italian influences, including: beef stew, lamb under the ashes, black risotto…and much more.

Šešir Moj sets itself apart from other traditional Serbian restaurants with bright and gorgeous pink flowers draping the walls. The menu highlights the assortment of grilled meats, just as one would expect from Serbian roots: veal roast, muckalica (a stew with beef, chicken or pork,) and beefsteak tagliata in oil with spicy herbs slightly smoked. There’s also a Winter Menu which mainly depicts locals’ love for pork.

One more delicious eatery in Skadarlija is Tri šešira, another ancient tavern in the Bohemian district. Opened in 1864, the traditional restaurant’s name means “three hats.” Originally, the same location was a crafts workshop with a logo that showcased three brass hats. Many Serbian writers and artists spent hours at the tavern creating masterpieces. These figures included: Đura Jakšić (Serbian writer, poet and painter,) Branislav Nušić (Serbian playwright and essayist,) Ilija Stanojevic-Cica (Serbian director and actor) …. just to name a few. Some modern figures who have dined at the restaurant include: King of Spain Juan Carlos I and George Bush. Tri šešira features meaty dishes, grills, soups perfect for cold winters. With its wide range of rakija, Tri šešira is a great spot to sip on them while tapping your feet to a live band.

Ima Dana is arguably one of the most famous restaurants in Skadarlija since its legend reels decades back when poets and artists used to gather in the same building. The interior wall paintings and décor recount the nostalgia of a Bohemian past in this quarter. There’s live music at the restaurants, performers sing about love and heartaches. The vintage dining experience at Ima Dana begins as soon as entering the doors to an ancient architecture colored by Greece’s signature shades – a standout from others on the popular street.

Riddle Bar is the perfect example that speakeasies and craft cocktails are making a splash in Belgrade. No menu, hidden entrance. One of the friendly bartenders arrives at the table to ask for taste and alcohol preferences: sweet, bitter, gin, vodka…etc. A few minutes later, he returns with a bespoke concoction which completely suits your unique palate. The team of mixologists even go out of their way to handmake the bar’s very own ice. Riddle Bar’s thoughtfulness even extends beyond the bar, a trip to the restroom is also a grooming access to hair products for men and hygiene materials for women.

A few steps away from Riddle Bar is Red Bar, where the ambiance is potentially rowdier in a larger two-floor space. As the music blares, the night owls also crowd on the bottom floor of the bar serving local beers and mixed drinks. The upstairs sitting area is calmer and used as a hotspot for pre-night-club-drinks.